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We had just returned to Mérida, the capital of Mexico’s state of Yucatán, after visiting the Mayan ruins of Ek-Balam, Chichén Itzá, Oxkintok, Uxmal, Kabah, Sayil, Lubná and Edzná. Many in our group were bewildered with the number of historic sites we had toured in three days. One of the talkative ladies in our group asked Roberto, our guide, “How many aboriginal ruins do you have in Mexico?” Roberto grinned. “They say there are over 25,000 archaeological sites in the country. You know that wherever one turns here, in the Yucatán, there is literally an ancient ruin near at hand.” The Yucatán Peninsula is the home of North America’s Mayans, the largest of the indigenous Indian groups, who have left us the world’s richest archaeological zone. Today, millions of these quiet and gentle people live and work amid fallen temples in some 5,000 ruined ceremonial cities – once the glory of their forefathers. These monuments from the past have made this area in Mexico the most visited part of the country.
How the Mayans built these once rich urban centres and developed a rich civilization erected on the knowledge of advanced astronomy and other sciences remains somewhat of a mystery. Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula is one vast limestone, rising a few metres above sea level and covered with only a thin layer of soil topped by a thorny-shrub forest. In this realm of the Maya, there are virtually no rivers, only cenotes (sinkholes or natural cisterns) – limestone caverns with collapsed roofs. With such a poor environment, how the Mayans were able to build thousands of stone pyramids and other temples is truly a mysterious phenomenon. They began their cultural development around 2000 B.C. and their civilization reached its apogee in the period from 600 to 900 A.D. During this era the Mayans, even though they practised human sacrifice to their cruel gods, achieved dazzling architectural, astronomical and calendrical heights. They invented their own writing and vigesimal systems (numeral system based on 20, twice the decimal system based on ten) and their celestial observatories established the different solar phenomena like eclipses. In addition, in those centuries, their economic and political systems compared very favourably with any of the advanced civilizations of the Mediterranean basin and Asia.
Today, the descendants of this sophistication are still there, but the glory of their forefathers has long faded into oblivion. I reminisced about this long-gone civilization as we made our way the first day from Mérida to Chichén Itzá – the most well known and most important of the Mayan cities. However, before reaching that illustrious once holy city, restored more than any other of the Mayan towns, we stopped for a while at the newly discovered archaeological site of Ek-Balam (‘black jaguar’) – once the capital of a state of 250,000. The site was only opened to the public in 1993. When I visited the site, work was still in progress on 19 of the some 600 structures while one of the largest and most impressive palace-temples in the land of the Maya was being restored.
From the observatory, employed by the Mayans to make astronomical observations, we moved to the northern group of structures. Our first stop was the Cenote Sagrado (Sacred Well) some 60 m (197 ft) deep and 20 m (66 ft) wide. The Mayans believed the well to be the abode of the rain god Chac to which they presented sacrifices and offerings. Objects like gold, jade, clay vessels and human remains have been recovered from its waters. Our next stop was the Templo de los Guerreros (Temple of the Warriors), owing its name to armed personages sculpted in stone. A few minutes’ walk and we were at the Juego de Pelota (Ball Court), impressive even by today’s standards. One of the 13 ball courts within Chichén Itzá, it is 168 m (551 ft) in length. Believed to have been a sacred field for religious-sport contests, the Ball Court is the best-preserved and largest playing field in pre-Columbus – Mesoamerica.
For the dramatic finale of our tour, we moved to El Castillo (Pyramid), built over an earlier pyramid – the Mayans’ prodigious feat of engineering which dominates the ruins. Constructed about 300 A.D., it is a structure of near-perfect symmetry. On each of its four sides, 91 steps lead to the topping Temple of Kukulcán. The steps total 364 that, with the top, make 365 – the number of days of a year. The whole structure is believed to be a solar calendar in stone. Erected over previous structures – one of which a visitor can climb inside the pyramid, it is one of the most well known of all Mayan temples.
Four times a year the pyramid heralds the advent of seasonal change by a play of light across its surface. At precisely 3:52 p.m., as the sun is setting in the west, isosceles triangles of light form down the staircase. These move down the façade with the stealth of an undulating snake. The final triangle fusing with the serpent’s head at the pyramid’s base completes the reptile’s image. As the sun continues to descend, the snake’s head is projected in shadow across the ground. The illusion is that of some divine serpent dropping from the heavens, then moving out among the people. For the Mayan masses, this was a realization of a covenant with their god.
Early next morning, for our second day, we travelled first from Mérida to Oxkintok – a little visited Mayan ruin. Sitting on a fertile plain, edged by the only hilly region in the Yucatán, this 5 sq. km (3 sq. mi) city is slowly being uncovered. We roamed some of Oxkintok’s restored structures, then left for Uxmal – 80 km (49 mi) from Mérida. The countryside became hilly as we drove through what are called the Puuc Hills. Here, rare in any other part of the Yucatán, there were many spots of fertile fields and orchards. No doubt, the cornfields that thrive in this part of the state were the reason why Uxmal, in Mayan meaning ‘thrice built’, reflecting the city’s many phases of development, became a rich and flourishing ceremonial centre. Entering through the gates, we stopped in astonishment. Before us was a breathtaking sight. La Pirámide Adivino (The Magician’s Pyramid) loomed in front of us, overpowering in its majesty. It was a grand welcome to one of the most important archaeological sites in the Yucatán Peninsula – a wondrous collection of proud pyramids, finely sculptured reliefs such as Sky Serpent masks.
Considered to be the most splendid archaeological site in the Pre-Hispanic era on the American continent, Uxmal, which has been excellently renovated, is considered to be one of the great showplaces of Mayan architecture and refinement and is famous for the purity and delicacy of its architecture and decorative art. According to archaeological experts, Uxmal was one of the largest cities in the Mayan world and its economic and political power, between 250 and 900 A.D., dominated a large area of the Yucatán. In this long era, it witnessed important intellectual and construction advances. What some call ‘the Athens of Mexico’, besides its scholarly activities, Uxmal developed the finest achievement of the Puuc architectural style. Now, as I surveyed the Pyramid of the Magician, a colossal structure, which gets its name from a legend that relates how it was built by a magician in only one night, I was astounded by its majesty. Along with the imposing edifices beyond, it is a testament to the achievements of its Mayan builders. Some 40 m (131 ft) high, it is a monumental construction, built over other structures during several periods of time. The tallest building in the complex of edifices, it has been only partially restored.
My struggle to the top of this pyramid was worthwhile. All around one could see the deep-green countryside hugging the ruins in all their splendour. Below, El Juego de Pelota (the Ball Court), composed of two parallel constructions, enclosed a playing field of 34 m (112 ft) long and 10 m (33 ft) wide. Like all ball courts in other Mayan cities, it was employed for prophetic and ritual practices. A little turn around atop the pyramid, El Palacio del Governador, revealed the 98 m (322 ft) long Governor’s Palace, a masterpiece of latticework and mosaics, that stood out dramatically among its neighbouring structures. Built on three terraces, and decorated with patterns of 20,000 individually cut stones, their friezes are a splendid example of stone mosaic work. The Palace is considered by some to be the most magnificent building erected by the Mayans. Nearby, La Gran Pirámide (The Great Pyramid) El Templo de los Monumentos (The Temple of the Monuments) and La Casa de las Tortugas (The House of the Turtles), named for the turtle carvings on its cornice, among others, all appeared to be worth exploring. Of course, if one had time, there were many other structures like El Grupo Cementerio (The Cemetery Group); La Casa del Chimez (The Chimez House); El Cuadrángula de los Palomas (The Quadrangle of the Doves) and El Templo de los Falos (The Temple of the Phallus), with its phallus scriptures hanging from the cornice.
The treasure of Uxmal is the Caudrángula de las Monjas (The Nun’s Quadrangle) – one of the architectural complexes most representative of the Puuc style, which is to be found throughout the ruins. Considered to be the architectural jewel of Uxmal, the whole complex is characterized by ornate stone mosaics – geometric designs in finely sculptured limestone. Elaborate decorations of stone latticework, masks, coiling snakes and phallic figures cover every inch of space. Inside the Quadrangle walls, held every night, is a ‘Sound and light’ extravaganza – a reminder of the Mayan cosmogony. Leaving this fantastic monument to Mayan genius, we made our way to Kabah – 19 km (14 mi) to the south of Uxmal. Here, in this monumental example of Mayan Puuc style architecture, archaeologists with their huge reconstruction projects are hard at work. We spent most of our time exploring Codz-Pop (Palace of Masks), dedicated to the god Chac – the most ornate building in the ruins. Its façade, covered with a series of 250 masks, has no match in Mayan architecture.
After examining the Great Arch, across the road from the main ruins, which marks the end of a ceremonial sacbe (Mayan highway) and is thought to have been the centre of the Mayan city, we left for Sayil – about 5 km (3 mi) south of Kabah. An imposing archaeological site, it is famous for its El Palacio (Chultun Palace), composed of three levels with more than 90 chambers. An impressive structure, it incorporates in its façade a multitude of rich carvings of the rain god and a distinctive portrayal of the descending god. We paused in our journey only for a few minutes in Xlapak to examine a restored palace with intriguing carvings of masks and curled noses before departing for Lubná, some 9 km (6 mi) south of Sayil. Near the end of the day, we stopped to marvel at its corbelled arch covered with elaborate latticework of styled serpents and thatched-roof huts. Attracting worldwide attention, it is one of the largest and most ornate arches ever built by the Mayans – a fitting conclusion to our day of exploration.
For our last day, we left Mérida for the two-hour trip to Edzná – one of the most important of the Mayan ruins in the State of Campeche, some 65 km (40 mi) from the city of Campeche. The town flourished from 300 to 900 A.D. when it became an important centre in the Mayan world due the fertility of its surrounding countryside, enriched by a highly sophisticated irrigation system along with accompanying reservoirs. Unlike most other Mayan towns whose structures consisted of one or two types of architecture, those in the 20 structures so far uncovered are a mixture of five Mayan types – Chenes, Chontal, Paten, Puuc and Post Classic.
Like all Mayan towns, Edzná’s temples reached skyward in order to be closer to the gods. They were built in such a way that the echo of a voice could be heard from building to building – a sound system with which the priests used to awe the people. This echoing system still works. We tried our voices as we stood on the well-preserved Big House, a stadium where the people would watch the ceremonies across the square on a ceremonial platform. Atop it rose a five-storey pyramid with steps 31 m (102 ft) high, before which to one side was the Temple of the Moon and to the other the Temple of the North. It was easy to visualize what an impressive sight the people would witness as the priests dressed in colourful costumes performed their magic before buildings, stuccoed and painted in bright colours, dominated their audience and contrasted vividly with the lush green of the surrounding countryside. The scene would fit perfectly with Mayan pageantry and the magic of the gods.
Back in the bus, with the aura of the Mayans still with us, we drove for half an hour to the city of Campeche. Hungry, we entered La Pigua Restaurant, constructed in the architecture of a typical Mayan home that served food based on Mayan dishes. Here, in the aura of this past, enhanced by the gadgets of the 21th century, we dined on one of the finest seafood meals I have ever tasted in Mexico. As I gorged myself on the succulent food, I reflected about the Mayans who believed that humans, nature and time were one. They lived in perfect harmony with the natural elements, while, like the Egyptian pharaohs, they prepared for a never-ending life. Then came the Conquistadors and pirates to loot and destroy.
After these invaders had enslaved and relieved them of their wealth, their civilization died a violent death. Thereafter, all their splendid cities were erased by the encroaching jungles. Only in the late 19th and 20th centuries were a number of these towns uncovered by archaeologists to again show scientists and tourists the genius of the Mayans. Yet, much of this brilliance is still not fully known since only 60% of their alphabet has been deciphered, but what has come to light staggers the imagination. Habeeb Salloum M.S.M. |
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