British Columbia ski
story
by Steve Giordano and Lynn Rosen
Canada is a
prime destination for a ski or snowboard vacation. Generally, the giant
mountains and vast snowfields are in the West, while the narrow trails and
quaint ski towns are in the East, just as they are in the U.S. Here we feature
two mountains in the British Columbia interior, Silver Star and Big White.
Silver Star tubing park and ice skating lake.
Photo courtesy Silver Star Mountain
Resort Ltd., by Don Weixl
SILVER STAR MOUNTAIN
Snow Report
Number: 250-542-1745
Reservation
Number: 800-663-4431
Phone:
250-542-0224
Website:
http://www.skisilverstar.com
Silver Star mountain and its village are highly rated for family skiing
and village living. It's the fourth-largest downhill ski resort in British
Columbia, after Whistler Blackcomb, Sun Peaks and Panorama. The resort gets an
average of 23 feet of snow with an average snowpack of 9 feet and it’s usually
the first British Columbia ski resort to open.
Silver Star Mountain Layout
Silver Star's
terrain covers two very different mountain faces. For families we recommend the
Vance Creek area served by the Summit Chair and the Comet Six-Pack Express. The
new Silver Woods area extends the Vance Creek area by 54 percent. For the more
adventurous, the Putnam Creek area can be accessed by the Powder Gulch Express
and the Summit Chair.
The backside
is steep and challenging; the front side is beginner-friendly. From the top of
the Summit Chair and the Comet Express, you can see Sun Peaks and Big White.
From here, it's a 5-mile run to the bottom of Aunt Gladys at the Putnam Creek
station.
Icicles dripping from a “snow ghost.”
Photo courtesy Silver Star Mountain
Resort Ltd., by Klaus Gretzmach
Advanced
skiers and riders head straight to the Putnam Creek side and scout the Back
Bowl for Free Fall, Where's Bob, Black Pine and Kirkenheimer.
Three Wise Men, White Elephant and Holy Smokes will smoke your thighs.
Intermediates
enjoy Gypsy Queen, reached via Aunt Gladys from Paradise Camp. It’s the most
popular blue run on the mountain. Another really great run on the opposite side
of the Powder Gulch Express, is Sunny Ridge. It takes off to the left just
before Paradise Camp.
Beginners
can't go wrong taking the Powder Gulch Express. From the top, Bergerstrasse, which becomes Aunt Gladys,
makes a nice long 5-mile green run. You can also grab the Home Run Tee
from there and take the Main St. Skiway straight to
the village. Discovery Park is served by the moving carpet and is fenced to
keep out the speedy interlopers, so it's a good place to make those initial first-timer
turns.
Thinking about what to do next.
Photo courtesy Silver Star Mountain
Resort Ltd., by Tim Fitzgerald
Snowboarders
should watch out for the Bergerstrasse flats above
Paradise Camp. Once beyond it though, there are plenty of single- and double-black
runs that will keep your inner freerider happy. The
runs all are served by the Powder Gulch Express. Just take Aunt Gladys to the
left and pick your chute off to the left.
TELUS Park
Silver Star is a halfpipe and terrain park on Big
Dipper, reached by riding down Little Dipper, Middle Dipper or Whiskey Jack.
The park has features for all riders and skiers, from small lanes with fat
boxes to learn-to-slide and mini-hits to learn how to catch your first air. For
advanced riders, long boxes and killer s-rails are coupled with large hits for
big air.
Adult lift
tickets cost C$68 per day, ages 13-18 and seniors 65+ pay C$56, and ages 6-12
pay C$33. No charge for children 5 and younger.
Silver Star Cross Country Skiing
Part of the
High Altitude Training Center, Silver Star's cross-country trails attract
skiers from around the world. Many of them are Olympic athletes in training.
The network of trails includes the adjoining Sovereign Lakes Cross Country
system, for a total of 100 km of groomed and track-set skiing heaven, with
several warming huts along the way. There are two fully certified biathalon ranges here. Lessons are available daily. The 38
miles of trails at the resort are skating and classic groomed, and 2.5 miles
are lit for night skiing. Guided snowshoe tours also are available.
Nordic day
passes cost C$20 for adults, C$14 for ages 13-18 and 65+. And
C$10 for ages 6-12. Children 5 and younger ski free.
Cross country
skier working on his uphill technique.
Photo courtesy Silver Star Mountain
Resort Ltd., by Tim Fitzgerald
Other Silver Star Activities
Silver Star's
Adventure Park has a lift-served Tubetown, skating
pond, Mini-Z snowmobile park for kids, horse-drawn
sleigh rides, snowmobile tours and snowshoe excursions.
Doing the tubing course in tandem.
Photo courtesy Silver Star Mountain
Resort Ltd., by Tim Fitzgerald
Via Snowmobile
Safaris, you can tour the resort perimeter on a snowmobile by cruising down
Silver Woods, around Putnam Creek, and then back to the summit of Vance Creek.
The machines are new Arctic Cat Touring sleds with smokeless, quiet four-stroke
engines. For juniors ages 7-12, there is a specially built motocross style
course for scaled down Arctic Cats. Advanced bookings must be made through the
Information Desk: Phone: 250-558-6019. Guided snowmobile tours are available.
Snowmobiling at Silver Star.
Photo courtesy Silver Star Mountain
Resort Ltd., by Tim Fitzgerald
The National
Altitude Training Center has a climbing wall (lessons available), wax rooms and
a fitness center. On Thursday nights in the auditorium, the locals and staff
put on an extravaganza of music, comedy and entertainment called Silver Star
Snow Show--don't miss it!
You can also
take a ride through the village in a horse-drawn carriage. For shopping, the
village has a liquor store, ski & snowboard shop, clothing & gifts shop
and a grocery store.
Silver Star Night Life
Be sure to
check out the Weekly Events Calendar when you check in. It lists the special apres-ski activities that vary from week to week.
Meanwhile,
head over to the Vance Creek Saloon where there's entertainment to be had
Wednesday to Saturday. Charlie's Bar is quieter and cozier. It's off the Silver
Lode Inn Dining Room. In the lower level of Putnam Station is a fantastic little
Wine Cellar featuring various wines and meals. Long John's at the Lord Aberdeen
Hotel has live entertainment four nights a week.
Silver Star Dining
The Bulldog
Grand Cafe, formerly the Putnam Station Inn, is an extension of the Bulldog
Amsterdam with the feel of an Austrian ski resort. The Silver Lode Inn Dining
Room features Swiss and international cuisine and a buffet dinner on Thursday
evenings. In the Silver Star Club Resort you'll find the most upscale
restaurant, Clementine's Dining Room with special prime rib Thursdays and
buffet Sundays.
The Italian
Garden, with pick-up and delivery, and the Vance Creek Saloon serve light meals
and snacks until midnight. Don't miss the Lord Aberdeen Bistro where soups are
a specialty and there's a wide variety of homemade fare. Long John's Pub at the
Lord Aberdeen Hotel offers pub fare, lunch, dinner and drinks; families are
welcome.
Bugaboos
Bakery Cafe, noted for its award-winning strudels and coffee, is a
European-style cafe beside the Town T-Bar on the Vance Creek boardwalk. Francuccino's Mountain Bakery & Cafe, owned by the same
couple, also serves delicious European baked goods, plus gourmet dinners three
nights a week (reservations required).
Paradise Camp,
at the Powder Gulch Express midstation, is good for
an informal lunch or snacks. In the Town Hall day lodge, the Town Hall Eatery
is the locals' hangout featuring soups, sandwiches, burgers and more.
Silver Star Accommodations
All Silver
Star hotels are centered around the main village.
Lodging can be booked through Silver Star Holidays, 800-663-4431.
BIG WHITE
Snow Report
Number: 250-765-7669
Reservation
Number: 800-663-2772
Phone:
250-765-3101
Website: http://www.bigwhite.com
Big White
says, "We use only dry, natural Okanagan Powder." The village sits at
5,706 feet (B.C.'s highest base area) and lifts carry skiers up to 7,606 feet.
That's about the same elevation as Whistler/Blackcomb but conditions differ as
the air and snow are considerably dryer this far inland. One of Big White's
signature features is its tree skiing.
Nice moves in
the “snow ghost” forest.
Photo courtesy Big White Ski Resort, by
Gavin Crawford/QuickPics
Big White is
big and getting bigger. The newly built Snow Ghost Express, paralleling the
current Ridge Rocket Express, services Big White's most popular runs and
terrain from the main base near the Ridge Day lodge. A free gondola carries
guests down from the main village plaza to Happy Valley with its day lodge,
rental shop, high-end gift shop, a skating trail and rink, Nordic center,
beginner's learning center and a humongous tubing park.
Night skiing
with 1,600 vertical feet is open Tuesday through Saturday (only C$5 on Friday
nights), the largest in the West. The terrain park is lighted as well.
Big White Mountain Layout
Expert skiers
and riders gravitate to the long and inviting Gem Lake Express runs. Goat's
Kick, skier's right off the Ridge Rocket Express, is an especially fun
challenge. Skier's left from the Alpine T-bar leads to Parachute Bowl. Don't
miss Big White's Pegasus and the double-black extreme playground, The Cliff,
off the same lift. There's quite a ski-out to the bottom of the Black Forest
Express, but the initial double-black rush is worth it.
Five riders on the 6-pack chair.
Photo courtesy Big White Ski Resort, by
QuickPics
Intermediates
can enjoy the Sun Run from the top of the Alpine T-bar, Exhibition, Highway 33,
Serwas and Sundance. There's also fine terrain off
the Rocket and Powder chairs. An entire area off Gem Lake Express is dedicated
solely to intermediate runs, making it worthwhile to venture to this
out-of-the-way part of the mountain.
Beginners,
even first-timers, gravitate to Millie's Mile, a gradual cruiser named after
the owner's granddaughter. It runs alongside the Black Forest Express. All
lifts serve at least one green run. A complete learn-to-ski facility, in a
private and secluded teaching area, is located at the base of the free Happy
Valley gondola, a short ride down from the Village Plaza. Hummingbird, served
by the Plaza Chair, is designated for first-timers only. Woodcutter is also
excellent, but mind the faster traffic.
Snowboarders
have a good time most anywhere on the mountain. Particularly popular is the
Sun-Rype Bowl and the adjacent Black Bear run, both
reached by the Gem Lake Express. The bowl is a big gentle swoop of a run that
can get you into some trees known as the Black Bear Glades. Also reached from
Gem Lake Express is the single-black Blackjack, a good long fall-line run. The
only double-blacks are reached by the Alpine T-bar, which many snowboarders
find difficult to ride.
Nighttime rail jam at Big White.
Photo courtesy Big White Ski Resort, by
QuickPics
Big White
invested $2.5 million to build TELUS Park, with an on-mountain lodge and
chairlift, so it can be used as a training and competition facility for
snowboarding and freeskiing. But don't worry, ordinary folks can also use it.
The 50-acre
park area centralizes the terrain parks, rail garden, pipes, boardercross and family fun-race area. An Olympic-sized,
500-foot-long superpipe, with 17-foot transitional
walls, meets World Cup FIS and X Games standards. If that's too intimidating,
try the 400-foot-long halfpipe with 12-foot walls.
Look for an intermediate terrain and rail park, an
advanced terrain and rail park and a boardercross
course capable of hosting Olympic FIS qualifying events. Within the terrain
parks, you'll find assorted mailbox sliders, step-up jumps and hips. Rails
include minis, flats, rainbows, kinks and wide rails.
Current lift
ticket prices before taxes are C$68 per day for adults, youth 13-18 and seniors
65+ pay C$56 and children 5 and younger ski free. Night skiing Tuesday –
Saturday costs C$28 for adults, except for Friday nights when tickets cost C$5.
Big White Cross Country Skiing
Big White has
25 km. (15 mi.) of world-class scenic cross-country trails. Skiers can choose
from groomed and trackset trails or wilderness
routes. The beginners' trail is a 4.3-km. loop from the Plaza Chair. Tickets
and maps are available from any ticket window. Cross-country skiing is included
free with lift tickets. Otherwise, Nordic day passes cost C$20 for adults, C$14
for ages 13-18 and 65+. And C$10 for ages 6-12.
Children 5 and younger ski free.
Cross country
skiing at Big White.
Photo courtesy Big White Ski Resort, by
Lindsay Bennett
Other Big White Activities
The Happy
Valley Adventure Centre at the bottom of the gondola offers a number of
exciting adventures including the Mega Snow Coaster tube ride with 10 lanes and
two lifts, snowmobile tours, sleigh rides, ice skating and snowshoeing. The
Happy Valley area also features a large lodge with live entertainment. At Quickpics (250-491-6104) in the Village Centre Mall, helmet
cameras are available for rent for $C60 (half day) or $C100 (full day). The
camera can also be attached to a toque or your head. For more information or to
book other activities, visit the Activities Desk in the Village Centre Mall or
call 250-491-6111. Weekly activities include A Taste of Big White Welcome Party
every Monday, Torchlight Parade and Fireworks, Carnival Night and Bingo Night.
The Whitefoot Medical Clinic (250-765-0544) operates
in the village from 3-6 p.m. for medical services. Appointments are preferred
but not required.
Big White Night Life
Big White has
seven lounges and bars where live bands perform regularly. Snowshoe Sam's is
commonly thought of as the best ski bar in Canada and we agree. It has DJ
entertainment, live bands, dancing and games of chance. Their legendary "Gunbarrel Coffee" show is a must. Raakel's
Ridge Pub, in Das Hofbrauhaus, has dancing and a
nightly party atmosphere. Happy Valley Bar, just a gondola ride down from the
village, parties with live DJs and theme nights. It's a great place for family
groups and get-togethers. In Whitefoot Lodge, there
is a market (250-765-7666) with everything from liquor to video rentals.
Big White Dining
Unlike most
other ski resorts, you don't have to drive or even walk more than a block or so
to find a great meal. All restaurants are in or near the village center and
represent a swell variety of offerings.
Beano's,
in the middle of the main ticket/rental building, serves the best coffee, soup
and sandwiches in the village. Beano's owners are
usually on site waiting on friendly Big White owners, managers and ski school
directors enjoying their morning javas. Big White's
owners and family live just across the street and like to check out what's
happening with their guests and staff each morning. Drop by and say hello, give
a compliment or lodge a complaint. They'll be glad you did. Surf the Internet
with your latte upstairs at the TELUS E-Loft.
Snowshoe Sam's
is a legend at Big White. This multistoried establishment, up a flight of steps
in the village, concentrates mainly on steaks and chops, although the seafood
and pasta are quite good. You'll need dinner reservations, especially on the
weekend when it gets packed. Their claim to fame is their Gun Barrel Coffee.
It's as much of a show as it is an after dinner drink. Your waiter pulls up
alongside your table with a double-barrel shotgun and pours flaming Grand
Marnier down the barrel into a glass with brandy, cacao and whipped cream. The
restaurant sells the most Grand Marnier in Canada.
Clear the
course — man on the move!
Photo courtesy Big White Ski Resort, by
QuickPics
The Swiss Bear
Dining Room in the Chateau Big White serves authentic Swiss cuisine and
specializes in fabulous fondues. Reservations are recommended. The Inn
Restaurant, in the Inn at Big White, is a great family restaurant with a
wonderful view that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. It features an
interesting and eclectic menu (some good veggie choices).
Coltino's Ristorante, at Das Hofbrauhaus,
serves Italian fare as well as Alberta beef in a friendly family environment. Raakel's next door has apres-ski
where they serve some mean salads, burgers and pizzas. They also offer the
usual pub fare of wings, fries, even poutine--that
typical French Canadian dish of French fries topped with cheese curd and
steaming hot gravy.
Frank's
Chinese Laundry in the Whitefoot Lodge prepares good
Chinese food with a quick in-and-out lunchtime buffet. Ride the gondola down to
the Kettle Valley Steakhouse, where you'll find a stylish wine bar, comfy
surroundings and a menu with lots of steak that will satisfy your red-meat
craving after a day on the slopes.
Big White Accommodations
Lodging in the
Big White mountain village ranges from hostels, hotels and condos to private
chalets, all ski-in/ski-out. Big White Central Reservations (800-663-2772 in
North America; 250-765-8888) is a one-stop shop for accommodation and package
vacation needs. You can also visit the website for accommodation details.
Getting to Big White and Silver Star
By air:
Kelowna International Airport is about an hour's drive from Big White and
Silver Star, and less than an hour's flight from Vancouver, Calgary or Seattle.
For air travel, both the U.S. and Canada require U.S. citizens to carry a
passport as of 1/23/07. As of 1/31/08, for land and sea travel, U.S. and
Canadian citizens will need to present either a WHTI-compliant document or both
a government-issued photo ID, such as a driver’s license, and proof of
citizenship, such as a birth certificate. Children 18 and younger may cross with
just a birth certificate.
By car: Silver
Star is in the heart of the Okanagan Valley, 40 miles northeast of Kelowna, and
Big White is 35 miles southeast of Kelowna. The two resorts are 59 miles apart.
The resorts are about 4.5 to 5.5 hours from Vancouver and Spokane and six to
seven hours from Seattle.
Getting around: No car is needed at Silver Star or Big White
unless you plan to explore. At Silver Star, a taxi loops continuously throughout the resort
until 10 p.m. daily. Inter-resort shuttles provide transfers between Silver
Star and Big White so you can ski for a day or split your stay between the
resorts.
Freerider swinging into a turn.
Photo courtesy Big White Ski Resort, by
QuickPics